24 HOURS, HAPPINESS
I guess it sounds like a wellknown surf-cliché claiming that the feeling of acctually cathcing a surf is addicting. With a risk of be put in the same pile as all the soulsurfers out there that once before already said it, I can't find any other way to put it in. The feeling of laying on the board, feeling the sun heat up the body and water prepare itself for a movement. It's a fast slowmotion. You breathe in the seasalted air like it would be energy that places the focus in your, and only your, body. Precision, you and the water. You look back, watching the break build up and form a pattern. You're starting to paddle, with rounded and firm hands. You feel the water grab you and give you the power to rise. It gives you the challenge. I know that it sounds like a chliché, but I'm stuck. I'm stuck in the fase of a strong will to do it again, over and over again. And to be honest, it crosses my mind often. Maybe to often. I repeat the movement in my head, playing with the thoughts of doing it better the next tome and dreaming away. And still I have so much left to learn, and I can't wait to get up on the board again. It's a chlicé, which basically means alot of people are experiencing the same feeling or situation. And in this case that's exactly what surfing is, an addiction.
24 hours from now in Orlando! ♥
L
